Rampaging Through Utah

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Photo: Alison M. Moore

Every state in the Union hosts some amazing event that draws both tourists and locals alike. Utah has many such events, ranging from music to film to Shakespeare to food festivals, but one that stands out is the yearly Red Bull Rampage in Virgin, Utah. While this event is less festival and more spectator sport, the competition has evolved into the center of all things free ride mountain bike.

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Ridge line start with helicopter looking on. Photo: Alison M. Moore

Over the ten years that Red Bull has hosted this downhill mountain bike challenge just outside Zion National Park, the sport has evolved tremendously. In fact, this event itself has been the catalyst for bigger hucks, more technical steeps, and more unthinkable air tricks. However, with bigger also comes the bad: injuries of the athletes far exceed those in previous years.

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Masses gather to witness. Photo: Alison M. Moore

It is both the thrills and the spills that draw the crowds year after year. Conveniently occurring each year on a Utah specific four day school weekend, families, college students, and obsessed bike fanatics alike all descend on the area, filling hotel rooms in St. George, pay camping in the famous Zion National Park, and even debaucherous BLM free camping near the venue.

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Sight of the Watchman from South Campground just inside Zion. Photo: Alison M. Moore

Everyone who appreciates athleticism and biking should consider spending a full four days to rampage through southern Utah. Tickets are not available at the gate, however. About two months in advance, Red Bull begins to sell tickets in small batches off their website in an almost secretive fashion. It is not widely advertised and each batch sells out quickly. Stay alert and you can certainly obtain tickets. When you get to the venue, you will understand why so few tickets (aka wrist bands) are given out.

The weekend of the event, camping and hotel rooms sell out. Plan on improvised camping if you don’t have a reservation, and also plan that most other people also are improvised camping, too. Some serious downhillers camp at the old Rampage venue to ride the old course after the event, which is about a 15 minute ride on bikes away. Be prepared for shenanigans here, both legal and otherwise.

We opted to stay in Zion at the South campground. Patience is key here- you cannot reserve spots, so “trolling” until a place is vacated is necessary in busy camping seasons. The drive to the venue from here is about 20 minutes. The obvious plus side is that you can now experience the national park when not in Virgin.

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Rainbow within Zion National Park. Photo: Alison M. Moore

Planning also pays off. Very little is offered at the actual site or in Virgin itself. Camelbak provides cool water if you bring the container. A local food store offers limited foods, but sadly no free Red Bull drinks. Since you cannot drive the 3-4 miles of slurpy sandy dirt road, plan to carry your necessities by foot or by bike. We chose to ride our cross-country bikes with full backpacks. Two days of events (qualifiers and finals) go much faster with all the appropriate needs, like small chairs, sunscreen, hats, food, and secret beers that you don’t let security see.

But when it is all done, then what? Some may keep riding in the area such as the old course, but cross-country riders may also enjoy the hour or so drive to Gooseberry Mesa for the challenge of slick rock. Or maybe you need a break from biking and want to hike inside Zion, such as Observation Peak, the view from which is shown below.

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View from Observation Peak. Photo: Alison M. Moore

Another option is to drive up to Bryce Canyon and try one of a plethora of biking (or hiking) trails that wrap around hoodoos and top out over red vistas. One fun trail not even in the park is the Thunder Mountain Trail, which if done as a loop incorporates a nicely paved bike path to meandering single-track that at one point strolls along the spine of a mountain.

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Happy camper despite the rain, halfway through riding Thunder Mountain. Photo: Alison M. Moore

What ever you choose, take advantage of all the amazing things around the Rampage, really taking the time to explore such a unique area, and getting to know Utah for more of its gems.

What Happens When You Live In Vegas, Stays With You

Las Vegas, Nevada is widely known through the universe as a “party town,” where the phrase most identified with it, What Happens in Vegas, Stays in Vegas, became a mantra of visitors and Hollywood films alike. As the city built itself from pit-stop in the desert to gambling mecca to party town, it has grown into a fascinating mix of weekend fantasies and real-life every day locals. The mob had its part in the birth of the town, Bugsy Siegel namely, whose vision of the city lived long after he was murdered. After El Rancho was built, the rise of the Sahara, the Sands, the New Frontier and the Riviera all came long by the mid-1900s, creating the foundation of what today is called The Strip. Interesting fact, many of those establishing hotel-casinos are now gone, razed to the ground to build bigger and better. In the 1950s and 60s, gambling was an obvious draw, specifically slot machines, but also showgirls, fine dinning, and entertainers like Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Elvis Presley all brought tourists by the millions. Not too much has changed, though the shows and buildings have multiplied and transformed, constantly making way for new experiences. One would have to stay nearly a month to see every quality show now available, a month and a half to include the bad ones, too. Restaurants far exceed the high quality dinning in most big cities, as well as an increase in other activities like ziplining Fremont Street or riding the largest Ferris Wheel in the world. The tourist area (aka The Strip) is certainly entertaining, fun, exciting, and with enough bright lights and glitz and glammer to make you stay, but there is more to this city.

It is still a town that many envision as criminal, devoid of social skills or morality. Assumptions made about the area and its residents or quality of life are made reflecting three nights of no sleep, lots of “free” booze, and questionable activities without ever actually interacting with “what locals do.” When I first moved to Las Vegas, and again when I was moving away, I encouraged these misconceptions, agreeing with people while I visited other states that Vegas tends on the side of despicable, or at the minimum, a lifestyle far from what I would ever want, one devoid of outdoor recreation sans motors, one without purpose, one that wasn’t fulfilling. I wouldn’t admit what my life was actually like, either to them, or to myself. Perhaps it made it easier for me to move, convincing myself that Las Vegas isn’t so awesome after all.

Four years now exactly since I moved from Nevada to Utah, and I now catch myself offended by those who badmouth the desert city. True, I’m deeply happy here in Park City, but not for lack of contentment in Las Vegas. I don’t often speak to naysayers about the beautiful things in that 24-hour town, but instead let them rant, even some times agree with them. When my boyfriend’s kids recently went to Vegas with their mother, they had very few positives to speak of my former town; immediately I sought to right their misconceptions.

I want to tell them, tell all of you, about how gorgeous it is off The Strip, away from the “tourons”, deep into ordinary, regular life. For a period of time I ventured into every single club possible, taking about two years to burn myself out. From there, I spent the rest of my 13 years of residency enjoying trail running and rock climbing and mountain biking out at Red Rock and its surrounding landscapes.

Trail Run VegasI had become a teacher after living in the town for about a year, (nope, not a stripper or a cocktail waitress, not that either job is a bad choice since both make 5-10 times as much as a teacher) and in fact still am a teacher. My school’s backyard, essentially, was Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, so after work I would take a run on the dusty trails and then just sit, soaking in these unusual rock formations and vibrant colors. Even after years of time there, it never ceases to amaze me.

Now, an avid climber, I think back to my first route ever climbed outdoors, a 5.6 also in Red Rock named “Pancakes and Porn”, attempting my first route in the blistering sun. Honestly, I remember very little about the climb itself aside from the fear and simultaneous excitement, and really only recall hiding under a rock afterwards for any sort of shade. Yet this is one of the world’s centers for climbing, a completely unique rock with unusual climbs.

I passionately miss the hard-pack red clay mountain bike trails out at neighboring Cottonwood Canyon, where I cut my teeth on the feel of a dual-suspension Gary Fisher. But it wasn’t the bike that changed me. It was the fast single-track, the witnessing wild horses hanging out in the shade of the hills, the constant rattlesnake dodging, the horny toads judging me from their shady bushes. Driving to the trailheads we often passed through the tiny town of Blue Diamond, passed Spring Mountain Ranch and its summer outdoor theatre, where audiences lay out blankets on cool grass and watched local thespians under the stars.

Hiking became a serious pass time for me as well, going with my family and my roommate on long walks, hikes, and backpacking trips. I joined the Las Vegas Mountaineers Club to camp with like-minded people, join hikes, backcountry ski, rock climb, even learning self-arresting in snow. Though the general thought of Las Vegas is blistering heat and endless boring desert, the truth is the heat is only unbearable for about four months, with two warmer months, and the rest of the year windy, cold, or perfect. Mary Jane

Though many of my friends did not climb or mountain bike, most did hike. I often filled my weekends with views of the mountains just outside of Las Vegas. And before anyone says, “There are mountains?” Let me share what I did for the last two years of my life there: I was a ski patroller. Nope, didn’t have to fly to another state or drive to Lake Tahoe- a 40 minute drive got me up to Lee Canyon’s Las Vegas Ski and Snowboard Resort, once named Ski Lee before Powdr Corp purchased it.

TonyOnce a week in winter, in general, I would spend my time volunteering as a ski patroller, developing another extended family who loved winter and snow sports as much as I did. Often, my few friends who loved to snowboard too would visit me when I worked, or when I was lucky when I wasn’t working, so we could ride together. Only two main lifts, true, but the views were amazing, the air fresh, and the snow fluffy. At least once during my two-year stint did we get so much snow we couldn’t open.

There is so much more here, too, but much of it is very personal. Here is where I became a part of Endless Productions and acted, wrote plays and saw them perform them, danced, belly dance at that. I witnessed my friends get married, have children, buy homes, start businesses. Endless, for me, means the friendships I made that are forever, these amazing personalities that have driven me to be the person I am today. If it weren’t for them, I would only be half of myself. Most of these performers were born and raised in the valley, and also take personal offense if you say Vegas is the center of debauchery. Maybe for some, but these are the folks who hike, backpack, perform, cook meals for their friends, and love me despite the distance. These are the friends who are, many of them, teachers, too; and parents, spouses, environmental activists, gardeners. And then there is my family, almost all involved in education, my nephews both obsessed with soccer and Mine Craft and hiking and water parks.

So now, if I were to hear someone say “How could you live in such a horrible place?” or even my favorite, “What hotel did you live in?” I will try my best to change their opinion. I miss Las Vegas, though my home is now a six hour drive away, and I miss everything that made my world what it was while I was there. Things are different now, I know, but my love for those things that defined Las Vegas for me, will never change. In the end, travel should not be about negative judgements based on a short affair with a city- spend time, learn, experience, and expose yourself to something beyond the glitter and the lights, beyond the tourist traps, and visit the world of the locals, and see through the local lenses.